A couple of trains and a bus or so after leaving Mannheim, I arrived in Selva val Gardena, aka Wolkenstein. It’s in an area of northern Italy which used to be part of Germany (?), but was reapportioned following WW2 (another ??). As such, residents speak Italian, German, and a weird local dialect which is a mix of both and more. It’s a beautiful little ski town at the foot of the Dolomites, but unfortunately it was cold enough that my SD card froze and I have no photos. Yes, that’s literally froze: I think at one point riding, with wind chill, it was something like -40. It was great, I had the slopes to myself! I should also mention that, much like this introduction, the order’s a bit all over the place: too much snow and too much awesomeness in too short a space of time means that I’m not totally sure what happened when.
So why Selva? My friend Wicklund was doing the season there and so I had a place to stay = yay (plus I wanted to catch up, of course—I’m not actually an arsehole). And oh my god was it amazing: aggghhhhhhh (imagine my face melting as I’m remembering how good it was). It’s a place I definitely want to go riding again, despite the problems I had with skiers (I was one of the only snowboarders on the mountain, and skiers literally walked up to me in lines and pushed me over. They really hate snowboarders… where is the love? I swing both ways!)
Wicklund met me at the bus stop and we headed back to his for some drinks, and I met some more of the crew, who were all snowily great. At some point though, the travel caught up to me and I fell asleep on my designated couch. Hours later, I woke up to find that I didn’t have the couch to myself: and while granted, I don’t like sleeping alone, I infinitely prefer that to sharing with random dudes. I’m also not very polite at whatever o’clock in the morning, and I kicked him out. Poor guy had to walk home in the middle of the night in -18 or something ridiculous. (Maybe I’m an arsehole after all!)
After some minor money-exchange dramas the next morning, I bought my ski pass and went to go and hire a board. I was travelling with my outer-gear and my own boots as usual, but my baby just doesn’t fit in my baggage allowance. The guys set me up with a Burton Feelgood, which I eyed dubiously, but took anyway. I then gondala’d up to the top, at which point I realised that there was a screw or two missing from my bindings (which definitely weren’t dropped by me as I readjusting my base-plates..), and I had to head back down again. Which I did. Newly screwed, I headed back up the gondala and took the board out for its first spin. And yuck. It was so squiggly and short and gross. I also just don’t get what the fuss is about Burton boards, I prefer the ski brand boards (I ride a K2, and my favourite hires have been Saloman and Rossignol). So I returned to the ski hire place in town again, walked in, and said that we really needed to do better. I may or may not have said that I needed something longer and harder… but really! I was talking about the snowboard!
Third time lucky—this time, I set the board up while still in the shop, and when I got back to the top (I put way too many hours into that gondala), it was lovely. Perfect stance, and a nice firm board, too: I like it steep and fast, and I don’t feel comfortable doing that on softer, wiggly boards. Ohhhh it was so gooood.
I had my usual random conversations with strangers over the next few days, of course. There were a few guys who wanted to go riding with me but couldn’t keep up; one Austrian dude who claimed to have gotten sick of snowboarding after becoming some kind of European champion, and now rides a monoski LOL; and my personal favourite, a bunch of Russians. I was next to them on a lift, realised what language they were speaking, and butted in. “You’re Russian?” I asked. They sure were. “I speak a little!” I announced, and with no further ado, they handed me a bottle of whisky. Sounds about right!
Oh my god, you actually have to go riding this area if you’re into snow-sports at all: even though I didn’t have particularly awesome snow, I was more than delighted to have something like 1500km of trails to play with. On my second day riding, I got to warm up on a 15 minute black run. Fifteen minutes!! In Aus or NZ, black runs are over in 90 seconds, 2 minutes tops. Ohhhhhh (more face-melting).
The next day I decided to attempt the Sella Ronda for the first time, a 40km trail that circumnavigates the Dolomites. Turns out, I did it the lame, non-steep way, but it wasn’t so bad. Before heading off, I remember I was sitting in a café looking out at the falling snow and having breakfast spaghetti (that’s a thing.. right?), when I was suddenly overwhelmed with the feeling that I’m probably the luckiest girl in the whole world, and started crying in the café. It wasn’t awkward at all. Also that day (I think), I had my big dog adventure, which I’ve already included in another post (actually an email I sent back to my colleagues in Aus).
Some time around then, we went for a night out in Selva. Drinking. So much drinking. After pre-drinking following an epic chalet meal, we went to a couple of different bars (I could totally be mooshing a few nights together here), making it to some kind of salsa class at 11pm in a packed, sticky bar. Needless to say, everyone was wasted, and I’m not sure how much salsa anyone really managed. I do distinctly remember being somehow cut off from the group I was with by some Italian guys, and backing away from them until I literally had my back against the wall (where the ‘wall’ in this case is a big stone column). They’re kind of aggressive. I also remember terrifying amounts of jäger (much like with the barkeep at my concert in Germany, I ended up inverted alcohol/mixer quantities, having around 1/3 can of red bull and nearly half a bottle of jäger in my cup). I couldn’t get through it, funnily enough, and passed it off to poor Rex, who just about died. Finally, I somehow managed to cut myself quite badly on the plastic cup, and asked the bartender for a band-aid. By the time I was sorted out, I turned around to find out that everybody I was with had left. I sent a rather enjoyably irritated text ranting at Wicklund, then trekked off into the snow and figured my way back home. Using wind direction. Like all good drunken sailors.
On my final proper day of riding, I did the Sella Ronda again, but in the reverse direction. It was much better: steeper, faster, longer, superb. I was trying for the girl speed-record, but got lost for quite a while in the middle, and made the rookie (safety) errors of both paying attention to signs, and unstrapping when I was supposed to. Next time! Because there will be a next time.
On Friday night we went to go and see the local team play ice hockey against their nearby rivals. It was my first ice hockey game (loved it), and also my first mulled wine experience (ditto). It’s nothing on the Russian ice hockey experience of course, but on the upside, there was ample entertainment to be found in the opposing team’s supporters’ enthusiasm and rage; not to mention one of the player’s surnames:
After a quick ride the next morning, I headed off to Prague to start my CELTA. I, awesomely, managed to get off in Prague at the wrong stop (the penultimate, rather than final, stop). I got on the next train to the city, and had my first functional Russian conversation, explaining the situation to the lovely train conductor. She let me get on with no ticket :). I was then greeted (‘gret’ should be a word. So should ‘sprunt’ for sprinted and ‘meese’ for the plural of moose) by a taxi driver sent by the school, and we talked in broken Russian the whole way to where I was staying. I was also somewhat flabbergasted to hear what was recognisably ‘These Boots Are Made for Walking’ on the radio, but all in Czech!
I just have to stress one more time how much I loved my time in Selva, and give a massive shout-out to Wicklund, Rex, and Kim in particular. Thanks so much for your unbelievable awesomeness and hospitality!!! 😀
2 responses to “A place of many names”
[…] suitcase (whose twin I now own), with winter clothing, all of my snowboard gear (for when I was in Italy), and stacks and stacks of books in Russian (as they’re just about impossible to find in […]
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